I print figurines for D&D adventures with my kids, both monsters and player characters, I’ve also done a few scenery items and player trinkets. So far I’ve just used whatever PLA I had around, but was thinking that maybe there were some brands (or other filament) that are better for this type of thing? Preferably also easily paintable since they’ve started to want more than just plain solid colour.

I’m using a 0.2mm nozzle for these, and detail is actually pretty decent.

  • EmilieEvans@lemmy.ml
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    18 hours ago

    Pretty interesting question as high quality and layer adhesion is required.

    **TL;DR Polymaker Polyterra **

    PETG: Good layer adhesion but stringing. If you can perfectly print it this would be my choice.

    PP: Excelent layer ahdesion. Easier to print than PETG but painting might be difficult.

    TPU: Somewhat combing the worst of PP and PETG for this application.

    ABS/ASA: requires enclosed printer, ideally heated to at least 70°C.

    PLA: Easy to print and work with. If the mechanical properties are good enough this is it.

    Personally, I really like the Polymaker Polyterra. Gives pretty results, easy to sand and paint.

  • roofuskit@lemmy.world
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    2 days ago

    If you’re printing miniatures on FDM you should check out

    https://youtube.com/@tombof3dprintedhorrors

    and

    https://youtube.com/@onceinasixside

    The first, Fat Dragon Games, has many years of experience printing, designing, and selling models for FDM miniatures. He’s got opinions on filaments.

    The second channel is more recent to FDM printing but made the jump from printing exclusively in resin and is now enjoying a journey into FDM. He talks about his preferred filaments in his videos.

    I highly suggest you follow both of them. Also Fat Dragon minis aren’t the greatest detail or have very expressive poses, but they are design specifically to print in FDM without support. So I suggest checking them out. Brite Minis is another FDM exclusive miniature model seller.

    I haven’t done FDM minis in a while so I’m not sure what filament brand to recommend specifically for that. But definitely stick with PLA. I know I used to use E-Sun and I believe that’s what fat dragon used to recommend as well.

    DO NOT use white filament to print minis. Pigments in the filaments affect their properties and there’s a LOT of white pigment in white filament and it makes it more brittle. Black tends to have the least pigment, but that doesn’t necessarily mean that makes the best filament for minis. Fat dragon usually recommends grey but I think that’s more for aesthetic reasons.

  • AmazingAwesomator@lemmy.world
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    2 days ago

    after starting to print d&d miniatures, i switched from fff to resin printing; i have not looked back. the increase in fidelity between fff and resin is unfathomable.

    • ExcessShiv@lemmy.dbzer0.comOP
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      1 day ago

      I mostly print large functional parts, so FDM is the best solution for that, and I just happen to also use it for printing minis because I already have it. I don’t have work space free for resin printing too, with all the extras it needs for handling and curing.

  • Imgonnatrythis@sh.itjust.works
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    2 days ago

    Hopefully some better answers otw, but pla painting is a little tricky. I can recommend using a non silk neutral pla, spraying with a plastic compatible primer coat and then painting with acrylics though. Have not perfected this, but it does work.

    • ExcessShiv@lemmy.dbzer0.comOP
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      2 days ago

      So far they’ve just used fine-point acrylic markers directly on the PLA, but it doesn’t quite cover properly. I’ll try the plastic primer 👍

  • Apepollo11@lemmy.world
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    2 days ago

    I use ESUN PLA+ for printing minis and would recommend it to anyone.

    For reference, the only filament I’ve used that came out nicer was SUNLU high-speed PLA, but would NOT recommend for minis (it can’t cope with the constant retractions).

    Oh, and also prime your models before painting them. I just use ordinary spray primer that you can get for dirt cheap - Tetrosyl Trade Spray / Hycote / Motip are all good brands. Just make sure you don’t get gloss finish and you’ll be fine!

  • TheYang@lemmy.world
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    2 days ago

    I’ve always wanted to try dipping a fdm printed mini into some craft UV curing resin.

    In my imagination that makes everything better ;), but I’ve never gotten around to try

    • brian@programming.dev
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      13 hours ago

      probably about the same as like vapor smoothing abs with acetone. I think pla has solvents that work too but they’re much nastier

  • kn33@lemmy.world
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    2 days ago

    I’ve always heard that resin printing is best for miniatures, but if you’re happy with the 0.2 nozzle, I’d stick with PLA. CookieCAD and ProtoPasta both have fun colors. If you really want to branch out, ASA with acetone vapor smoothing could be something to try.

    • ExcessShiv@lemmy.dbzer0.comOP
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      2 days ago

      I really don’t want to deal with resin, I don’t have room for a proper safe workstation for it.

      I think ASA with acetone vapour will smooth out too much detail, which is already limited. The layer-lines aren’t really an issue either, i print at 0.08mm thickness (it takes forever to print these…)

      • roofuskit@lemmy.world
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        2 days ago

        If you don’t have a safe space for resin you don’t have a space for printing ASA or vapour smoothing either.

        • Bluewing@lemmy.world
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          2 days ago

          FDM printing ABS/ASA is far easier and safer than resin printing since most CoreXY printers are enclosed these days. A simple fan and ether venting to the outside world or through activated charcoal air filters is a relatively simple procedure. Printers with all of that filtration are easily purchased these days. Even vapor smoothing can be done outdoors if it’s warm enough.

        • ExcessShiv@lemmy.dbzer0.comOP
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          2 days ago

          ASA i have, because i have en enclosed printer with filter…but i dont have space for handling resin or vapour smoothing (like I said)